Sandwiched between two of the most important areas of the UNESCO World Heritage Site is the road Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling that stretches from Lebuh Light to Masjid Melayu (Melayu Mosque) on Lebuh Acheh.
Along this street lies a church, Indian and Chinese Temples that sit almost side by side, comfortably, within a stone’s throw away from each other. Within this short and narrow stretch of less than a kilometre road, is a true testimonial – a unique blend – that does not exist anywhere in the world. It represents a multi-cultural concept that is a rare site in comparison to anything you will see.
In order to see all that Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling has to offer, start your journey at the northern end of the street, at the junction of Lebuh Light or Lebuh Farquhar, and you will be striked by the white-washed one-storey structure of St George’s Church. It is one of the last memories, a bygone time of the British rule in Penang. It is the first Anglican church on the island as well as in Southeast Asia with its Georgian Palladian design complimented by the ancient-looking mahogany trees dotted on the green lawn.
A worship place is normally the focal point for any town and it’s no different for this island port. The area was once an extensive community for the British. For a lesser traffic, take a short detour off-track wandering down Lebuh Light towards Esplanade and Fort Cornwallis to soak in some of the other colonial buildings.
Further down from St George’s the Goddess of Mercy Temple is one of Penang’s most famous sites for the Chinese community. In the weekends and late afternoons, devotees throng the temple to pray leaving chains of smokes – a particularly atmospheric site at dusk. One of its most prominent features is the dozens of giant pink smoking joss sticks displayed at the forecourt; the extraordinary number of dragons on its carved stone pillars and roof ridges and its hanging red lanterns in the inner chamber. Not forgetting the 18-armed statue of the goddess herself.
Just around the corner off the main street, along Lorong Stewart and its narrow side streets, reveals some of the most authentic Chinese architecture of time gone by. The colonial houses still house local residences and their small businesses selling joss sticks, flowers, temple offerings, and sometimes even household items and food. Another great area for a short detour off the main street.
Visit the Hindu shrine next to the temple in the evenings and you will see a mini procession of prayers and chanting, which leads you directly into yet another world. If the shrine and Chinese Temple has not made an impression, cross the road onto Lebuh Pasar and let your senses be tingled by a whole new set of sights, sounds and smells of Little India. Along the Street of Harmony on this section of the tour, you will also find the Sri Maha Mariamman Kovil, the oldest Hindu temple on the island. Check out the gold, diamonds and emeralds embellishment of the statue of Lord Subramaniam.
Moving along, and after the crossroad stands the magnificent Kapitan Keling Mosque with its imposing minaret and domes that towers above the rofftops to the West. Originally built to serve the local Indian Muslim community, the mosque has changed its sizes over the decades since the British colonisation. It features a curious mix of colonial architecture with Moorish arches, and exquisite stained glass and calligraphy panels in its interior.
Tours into the mosque vary over the weekdays and the weekends. Be sure to observe the dress code required within the mosque. Finish your tour with a light stroll towards Armenian Street and be sure to visit the area next to the mosque in the evening for one of the most popular nasi kandar delicacy within George Town.
Eat & Drink
√ Nasi Kandar Beratur Original, 98 Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling
√ Bite N Eat Dindigul Biryani Restoran, 17 Lebuh Pasar
√ Bistro Tang, 82A Lebuh Penang
√ Kebaya Restaurant, 5 Lorong Stewart
√ Sri Ananda Bahwan, 55 Lebuh Penang
√ Paul Loiis, 18 Jalan Lebuh King
√ Kaffa Cafe, 72-74 Lebuh China
√ The Daily Dose, 36 Lorong Stewart
√ Market Lane Cafe, 34C Lorong Pasar
Do’s
√ Tropical Spice Garden Shop, 29 China Street
√ Pinang Peranakan Mansion, 29 Church Street
√ Gerak Budaya Bookshop, 78 Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling
Sleep
√ The Boutique Residence Hotel, 129 Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling
√ Red Inn Court, 35C Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling
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