Over centuries, foreign merchants and travellers from as far as China, India, Indonesia, Portugal, Holland and Britain have made their way to Southeast Asia via the ‘spice route’, often creating pockets of community within cities. While many foreigners have returned to their homeland, some have stayed on, married local women and started families of their own, creating a cross-cultural and eclectic community found only in Southeast Asia: the Peranakan, which means “locally born”.
In Penang, the Peranakan were predominantly Hokkiens from the Fujian Province of southern China. Along with their religious practices, artistic tastes and culinary skills, the Chinese migrants, over time, started merging their heritage with the local Malay influences, developing a unique hybrid culture. This cross-cultural marriage created fusion of language, fashion and lifestyle unique only to Southeast Asia. The Babas and Nyonyas are names given to the men and women in this community. The recipes, famously known as nyonya cooking, manifest the important role of women in the traditional kitchen and continue to be one of the most complex cuisine, not many have mastered the art of Nyonya cuisine.
More famously known as Peranakan cuisine, these home-cooked dishes represent the combined flavour of locally-grown herbs and spices including chillies, coconuts, tamarind and belacan (blended condiment of chilli and shrimp paste). To this day, these ingredient are used to create strong and distinct flavours, often complemented with the delicate taste of warm and fragrant rice.
Nyonya cooking can be found at almost every kopitiam (coffee shop) in Penang. It has become a staple diet for the locals and continues to be one of the main attractions of Penang. Penangnites are well-versed in one of the most common Chinese dialect in this northern state – Hokkien. Raise some eyebrows by ordering your favourite dish using these local names.
Some popular perankan cuisines among the locals :-
Assam Laksa
Visit to Penang will not be complete without trying one of its signature dishes; noodles, made from rice flour, is fused with fish broth and flavoured with mackerel, tamarind juice, lemongrass, chillies, torch ginger, mint and belacan. A spoonful of hey ko (prawn paste) is optional.
Nasi Ulam
The earthy aroma of the local salad is tossed together with thinly-sliced local herbs, dry-toasted shredded coconut and dried shrimps served with rice and belacan.
Kari Kapitan
A curry dish usually made with chicken fused with assortment of local spices including turmeric, galangal,ginger, belacan, candlenut, lemongrass, kaffir leaves, coriander and coconut milk. Enough said.
Otak-Otak
Straight from the steamers, it is usually served wrapped in attap leaves. This simple curried custard is made with fish meat and/or prawns, spices, coconut milk and beaten eggs.
Perut Ikan
Literally translated as “Fish Stomach” from bahasa Malaysia to English, this curry-like stew is made with pickled fish innards, local vegetables and aromatic herbs. Think rich, savoury, sweet, sour and spicy goodness.
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